With 'oeno-flation' on the rise, it's becoming hip to be square and explore less exclusive—and cheaper—wines from often overlooked regions.
The sommelier Honey Spencer, of Sune in east London, struck a chord on Instagram earlier this year: "I'm so fucking sick of expensive wine," she lamented. She went on to complain about the "unrelenting rise" in the cost of bottles from "artisans making wine properly … and FORGET BURGUNDY." In a tough climate, this is "one of the hardest pills to swallow" for restaurateurs.
It's not easy for customers either, given the mark-up these days. According to UKHospitality, wine prices have risen 40% since 2020—a fact that will surprise no one who has quietly wept into a £59 rioja.