Fenix, a new Greek restaurant on Piccadilly in Mayfair, is unapologetically over-the-top. It belongs to the 'maximalist' school of dining, alongside recent openings like Lilibet’s and Simpson’s-in-the-Strand. While many restaurateurs bemoan the financial downturn, Fenix delivers a pleasure palace of Athenian-inspired excess. The interior, all sumptuous ornamentation, feels like a cross between an Aegean god’s sanctuary and a high-end bedding showroom. Leave the traffic behind, step inside, and you’re immersed in a world where taramasalata, hummus, and moussaka are elevated to something truly special.
Can these Greek staples ever be fancy? The answer is a resounding yes.