In the vibrant tapestry of London's dining scene, the cuisine of Xinjiang—a vast, autonomous region in northwestern China—has emerged as a standout. Known to its predominantly Turkic-speaking Muslim Uyghur population as East Turkestan, Xinjiang's cooking shares deep roots with other Turkic cuisines, especially a love for lamb and skillfully spiced kebabs. These skewers, called kawap in Uyghur, have become iconic street food in Beijing, where they're sometimes dubbed "old Beijing skewers." But you don't need to travel to China to enjoy them—they're surprisingly simple to make at home with a hot grill. Welcome to the summer of the skewer!
Choosing the Meat
Lamb is essential, but you have two main options: a well-marbled cut like breast, shoulder, or neck, or a leaner cut like leg or rump, paired with small chunks of lamb fat. After testing various recipes, I find rump, as recommended by barbecue expert Helen Graves, to be ideal. The fat attached to the meat helps tenderize it during cooking, though it may lose appeal as it cools. For juicier results, cut the lamb into pieces about 2.5 cm x 1.5 cm, with the fat sliced thinner so it crisps up beautifully on the grill.
The Marinade
While some cooks skip marinating and simply toss the meat in spices before grilling, a brief marinade enhances flavor. I prefer a simple mix of sliced onion and salt, which helps reduce gaminess and seasons the meat deeply. Aim for 30 minutes to 2 hours—any longer can make the meat too salty.
Seasoning
The hallmark of Uyghur skewers is roasted cumin and chili. After browning the meat on the grill, move it to lower heat and sprinkle with a blend of ground cumin, chili flakes, and Sichuan peppercorns for a tingly kick. Avoid adding salt, as the meat is already seasoned from the marinade. For extra crunch, you can add whole cumin seeds or sesame seeds.
Cooking
Grill the skewers over hot coals or a smoking-hot griddle pan, but be cautious of flare-ups from dripping fat. If using lean meat, you can press the skewers together to distribute fat, but typically this isn't necessary.
Serving
Serve the skewers with warm flatbreads—preferably heated in the lamb fat—and a chopped salad. Or enjoy them on their own with a cold beer, just like the locals in Beijing.
Perfect Uyghur Lamb Skewers
Ingredients
- 500g lamb rump, cut into 2.5 cm x 1.5 cm pieces
- 100g lamb fat, sliced thinly
- 1 small onion, thinly sliced
- 1 tsp salt
- 2 tsp ground cumin
- 1 tsp chili flakes
- 1 tsp Sichuan peppercorns, ground
- Wooden skewers, soaked in water for 30 minutes
Instructions
- Combine lamb, fat, onion, and salt in a bowl. Cover and refrigerate for 30 minutes to 2 hours.
- Thread the meat and fat onto skewers, alternating pieces.
- Prepare a hot grill or griddle pan. Cook the skewers for 2-3 minutes per side until browned.
- Move to a cooler part of the grill and sprinkle with the cumin, chili flakes, and Sichuan pepper. Cook for another minute, turning to coat.
- Serve immediately with flatbreads and salad.