Sunshine lit up the polished olive-green carriages as trainspotters jostled on platform 2, awaiting the 11:07 from Warszawa Główna to Poznań. A man in a bow tie and braces zipped past me, excitement palpable. This was no ordinary train, but a journey back in time—a throwback to the communist era, courtesy of Poland's new "Nieśpieszny" (Unhurried) retro rail service.
To celebrate the 25th anniversary of PKP Intercity and the centenary of Polish state railways, a series of retro journeys has been launched. Every weekend through summer, a fully refurbished 1980s train departs from a different region, from the mountainous south to the Baltic coast. When my friend Mariusz mentioned it, I booked my ticket the day they went on sale.
On board, I settled into a marmalade-coloured six-seater compartment with armchair-like seats. Nobody was commuting or in a rush. Our unhurried journey would take five hours, compared to just over two on a faster service. Ready for an early lunch, I followed the smell of fried sausages to the dining car, where WARS—catering since 1948—served vintage menus. I squeezed onto a stool next to Anita and her son, concert pianist Jan Lisiecki, visiting from Calgary. "In the 1980s, trains were packed. People stood in the toilet. This is nothing," Anita said.
I tucked into fried eggs, potatoes speckled with dill, and a cool cup of kefir. The communist-era food was freshly cooked and excellent. Another passenger was enjoying flaki, tripe soup. "This is the real deal," he said, taking a spoonful.
As we trundled past wind turbines, Scots pine forests, and cabbage fields, the real attraction was the train itself—its handsome interior and the novelty of opening windows fully to stick your head out. My phone battery died, so I recalled past highlights. Wrocław Główny station, neo-Gothic from 1857, has neon signs from the 1950s and wood-panelled ticket counters. In Toruń, I crossed the Vistula for a panoramic view of the medieval town and visited a museum dedicated to adventurer Tony Halik. Sopot, a Baltic resort, is a 20-minute hop from Gdańsk, where I enjoyed fisherman's soup and my first jagodzianka, a blueberry-filled bun.
Back on the retro train, with 45 minutes to go, I returned to the dining car. The queue was long but the staff friendly. The apple pie was generously fruity. I winced at the harsh, grainy coffee. "That's the old stuff—still the only coffee my grandma drinks," a neighbour said. A nod to the past, and forgivable.
Our unhurried train contrasts with Poland's rapid modern rail development. Disused carriages are being revamped, and in February, Poland won the 2026 Rail Champion award in Brussels. When the future is this promising, why not indulge in good-natured nostalgia, bitter coffee and all?
Nieśpieszny journeys cost from £20. Koleo, a mobile app and website, is useful for navigating Poland's railway system.