H omemade mascarpone is one of life’s true pleasures: thick, creamy and unctuous, with a classic, tart finish, it’s perfect for everything from desserts such as tiramisu, cheesecake or whipped mascarpone cream to savoury dishes such as pasta, risotto or soup. Mascarpone is a simple cream cheese that’s made by heating, acidulating and straining double cream, and it’s quick and easy to make at home; it’s also a great way to extend the shelf life of leftover cream, while at the same time turning it into a real treat. Even a small batch of 100-200ml cream will produce just enough mascarpone to make many a savoury dish sing, for instance in my pea pod risotto or salad bag soup, or to serve alongside my root vegetable latkes.
Homemade mascarpone
Mascarpone is one of the simplest yet most rewarding recipes. I love making things from scratch that you’d normally buy from the shops, not least because it sheds light on commercial products and teaches us how they’re actually made.
Next time you sniff the remains of a pot of cream and it smells a touch sour, rather than throw it, turn it into your own mascarpone (if there’s any mould, though, it’s too late – time to feed the compost monster). I made a 200ml batch, but you could make it with as little as 100ml, which is more than enough to top a risotto or to spread on toast with honey.
100ml-plus double cream1 tsp lemon juice per 100mldouble cream
Tip the cream into a small saucepan and set it over a medium heat. Stirring with a wooden spoon, heat gently until it reaches 85C, then stir in a teaspoon of lemon juice per 100ml cream. Turn down the heat and, still stirring gently, keep the temperature at a steady 85C for three minutes (if you don’t have a thermometer, turn down the heat once the cream starts to steam and before it simmers, with just a few bubbles around the edge).
Take off the heat and leave to cool at room temperature for an hour, stirring occasionally. Line a small sieve with muslin or a clean cloth, and set this over a bowl (make sure the sieve doesn’t touch the base of the bowl). Pour in the cooled cream, cover with a plate and put in the fridge to drain for eight to 24 hours.
Transfer the mascarpone left behind in the sieve to a clean jar and store in the fridge for up to three days. Save any whey that’s drained off to drink, or use it in baking.
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