Turin is famous for its refined food culture, shaped by the Savoy dynasty and the slow food movement. But for a true taste of the city's soul, you need to find a piòla — a working-class tavern that has resisted gentrification.
Piòle were never restaurants. They were places where locals gathered for a glass of barbera, poured from a cylindrical carafe called the tubo. Regulars played cards, debated football or politics, and lingered without ceremony. Food, if it appeared, was simple: anchovies in green sauce, hard-boiled eggs, cold cuts, or a plate of agnolotti.
Today, few survive, and many have gone upmarket. But the real deal still exists — offering a slap-up meal for just €12. It's a rare, affordable taste of Turin's authentic home cooking.
"Piòle were never quite restaurants. They were places for a glass of barbera... in rooms worn smooth by decades of use."
My search for the perfect old-school tavern led me to these hidden gems, where the spirit of old Turin lives on.