A new phenomenon called cosmeticorexia is sweeping through social media, as dermatologists warn that young girls are becoming obsessed with multi-step skincare routines involving anti-aging products. Influencers as young as eight are earning thousands of pounds promoting serums, toners, and creams, while regulators in Italy investigate whether beauty brands are covertly marketing to children.
Ellie-May, now 13, started her skincare TikTok channel at age eight and has amassed over 330,000 followers. Her family earns more than £50,000 a year from content creation. “Being content creators has transformed our lives,” says her mother Sophie. But experts say the trend is causing real harm.
A survey of 1,500 nine-to-12-year-olds found that nearly half use multiple skincare products weekly, and many cite “problem skin” as a reason. Dermatologist Dr. Jean Ayer reports seeing children as young as eight with severe allergic reactions and acne caused by anti-aging ingredients. “Your skin barrier is beautifully preserved in youth. These products are designed for the anti-aging market and can damage delicate skin,” she says.
Cornell researcher Brooke Erin Duffy notes that while women in their 30s and 40s have long been targeted, the shift toward pressuring young girls is new. Italian regulators are investigating LVMH-owned brands Sephora and Benefit for allegedly failing to clarify that their products are not for children. The UK’s ASA is monitoring the situation.
The obsession—dubbed cosmeticorexia—is defined by an unhealthy fixation on achieving “flawless” skin. A study of 55 patients aged 8 to 14 found that those affected used up to 10 products daily and avoided socializing without makeup. The average cost of routines featured in under-18 TikToks was £125.
While some brands disavow youth marketing, Dr. Ayer warns of long-term consequences: “At best, they don’t need these products. At worst, they contain harmful ingredients.”