A new wave of barely-there footwear is pushing the boundaries of what constitutes a shoe, with designs that leave feet exposed yet encased in a delicate web of fabric. The latest entrant is the Balla "sock shoe" by cult brand Dear Frances, which covers almost the entire foot in a flimsy mesh cage. Creative director Jane Frances describes it as offering a "unique, glove-like fit" inspired by "the delicate strength of a woman."
This trend follows the viral success of Alaïa's £650 fishnet ballet flats in 2022, which sparked a cascade of high-fashion versions and high-street knock-offs. Trend forecaster Tiffany Hill notes that these shoes struck a chord by offering something familiar—the ballet flat—but making it feel "more intimate, lighter, and slightly exposed." They occupy a "clever middle ground: covered, but not covered; practical, but a little provocative."
At Chanel's latest Cruise show in Biarritz, the trend reached an absurd peak with heels tied to models' feet without any shoe structure. Hill views this as runway provocation, but part of the same movement where "footwear being reduced until the absence becomes the point."
While these shoes may make a fashion statement, podiatrists warn they come with risks. Sarah Crookes, director of Hackney Podiatry, explains that the upper of a shoe supports foot function, and wearing naked shoes long-term could lead to foot strain. The thin soles also lack shock absorption, potentially causing tired feet and exacerbating issues with the plantar fascia and Achilles tendon. "All in all," she says, "a unique shoe which is likely to draw attention—but from a podiatrist's perspective, I wouldn't recommend it as a functional shoe."
So while fashionistas may embrace the naked shoe as a humblebrag requiring well-pedicured feet, those seeking serious step-counts might reconsider.